James Lowe abandoned plans to become a pilot to work in some of London's best restaurants. In 2014, he co-founded Lyle's in Shoreditch, with the aim of showcasing the best British ingredients, which has since been awarded a Michelin star and has been listed among The World's 50 Best Restaurants
What sort of cooking do you do at home?
I split my week between London and Brighton, so I do find it particularly difficult to stay on top of keeping fresh food in the fridge. I tend to cook with a lot of store cupboard ingredients - you can't really go wrong with some good quality anchovies, olive oil, vinegars and preserves. One of my favourite quick and easy dishes to make during the winter is charred greens (I opt for kale and purple sprouting broccoli, which I roast, pan-fry or stew), paired with fried eggs, salty anchovies, honey and preserved chillies.
Which seasonal ingredients will be starring on the menu at Lyle's at the start of the year and how will they be served?
Pumpkins, including kabocha, delica and koginut. These dense, low-water-content pumpkins are particularly rich and strong in flavour. At Lyle's, we steam the pumpkins whole first, including the seeds, with the skin on. Then we tear them open, remove the seeds and roast them in a wood-fired oven to get loads of colour and texture from the gnarly edges created by the tearing. We serve this as a standalone dish on our lunch or dinner menu, accompanied by a nutty blue cheese sauce made with Pevensey Blue from Sussex.
You meticulously source British ingredients for Lyle's. Which three do you think are overlooked and make a big difference in cooking?
The UK dairy industry definitely deserves much more recognition for its incredible varieties of cheese. Despite tight margins and numerous challenges, the quality of British cheeses continues to get better and better. I like to shave some cheese onto salads or vegetables to add depth of flavour. The difference between hand-picked fruit and standard supermarket produce is huge. There are lots of pick-your-own farms here in the UK, which allow access to exceptional fruits such as loganberries, damsons and plums. Nettles can be picked twice a year - they have a flavour quality that is hard to match with other greens. We use nettles extensively in sauces, purées and soups; they are extremely versatile.
Who do you have coming up in The Guest Series at your restaurant? And what does collaborative cooking mean to you?
The next three guest chefs are all brilliant: Jung Eun Chae, the chef and founder of Chae, a six-seat Korean restaurant run from her home outside Melbourne; recipe developer and cookbook author Danielle Alvarez; and Bertrand Grébaut, chef and co-founder of Septime in Paris. Collaborative cooking offers an opportunity to work with new chefs, to explore different ingredients and techniques, and also to spark fresh conversations, which motivates and inspires both me and my team at Lyle's.
How do you use game at this time of year?
We cook a lot of British game - it is a significant part of the menu. We feature dishes like a whole wood-roasted pheasant for two at lunch, grilled mallard in the evening and pheasant broth.
Are there any particular chefs or restaurants that have inspired your style of cooking?
The River Café and St John in London, and The Fat Duck in Bray inspired me to open my own restaurant. Having worked at all three, I got the chance to discuss the importance of ingredients, people and restaurants with Rose Gray, Ruth Rogers, Fergus Henderson and Heston Blumenthal.
What are your favourite places to eat in London?
The great thing about the capital is that we are really spoilt for choice. Some of my favourites are Polentina, Planque, Towpath Café, Singburi and 40 Maltby Street.
